In the newly planted fruit trees, it is often found that the seedlings are not dying, they do not seem to wrinkle, and the shoots do not dry up. However, in the third and fourth months, they have not been able to germinate, or even if they germinate, their growth is very weak. This phenomenon is Often referred to as a stiff seedling. The phenomenon of stiff seedlings in fruit trees will affect their growth during the year and delay the result period. If they cannot be dealt with in time, they will also cause a large number of dead seedlings. The reasons for the emergence of stiff seedlings are as follows: (1) When the seedlings are transplanted, too many roots are damaged, in particular, the root damage is severe, and it is difficult to absorb water and nutrients after planting, resulting in the physiological dysfunction of the aboveground and underground parts of the whole tree. (2) The time from seedling raising to planting is too long, and the root system is frozen or exposed dehydration. (3) The soil in the planting garden is not suitable for the growth of rootstocks. (4) Rootstock and scion incompatibility or poor progeny resulted in grafted buds not germinating, but rather rootstock sprouting and branching under the interface. (5) Improperly positioned dry planting leaves a weak bud and bud. (6) Planting too deep, due to the lack of oxygen in deep soil and the slow temperature rise in spring, is not conducive to root growth and wound healing, affecting tree growth. (7) Insufficient sensation, together with false covering during planting, the contact between roots and soil does not closely affect root growth. (8) improper management, so that the ground temperature is too low. The growth of roots of various fruit trees requires a certain temperature. If the groundwater table is too high, watering too much or watering frequently, the soil temperature will be lowered, affecting the long roots, and delaying the germination. Preventive measures: (1) Select suitable rootstock and soil. When purchasing seedlings, in addition to selecting good varieties, it should also be noted that the rootstock of fruit trees should be suitable for the soil conditions in the region. (2) Use strong seedlings for planting. Choose seedlings with well-developed roots, stout shoots, full shoots, rootstocks and scion interfaces for colonization. (3) Choose the best time for colonization. After the soil is thawed, it can be planted after reaching the planting depth. At this time, the temperature is relatively low, so when the temperature rises after seedling emergence, it is the best time for seedlings to germinate and grow, which can increase the survival rate. (4) Before the planting, the mud will be wounded and the deep pits will be buried shallowly. The saplings will be shaken while the soil is buried to facilitate the stretching of the tree roots. The soil and roots will be closely connected and the soil will be pressed. Pour a permeable water, cover the film, and do not water it frequently. (5) Reasonable and dry. After the fruit trees are planted, cut the trunk. Generally cut at the full shoots between 50-80 cm. (6) It can be planted with "bagging" in areas that are dry and windy in spring. The plastic bags used were cut according to the dry height. Use a plastic strip 5 cm wide, leave the mouth, and align the left, right, and upper mouths. Plastic film should not be too thin (such as plastic film), too thin and not easily affixed to the seedlings, adverse to the seedlings. After the saplings are planted, the bags are put on the trunk and the lower mouth is buried with wet soil. As the temperature and humidity of the trunk growth environment is improved, it is conducive to germination. After germination, the mouth is gradually opened, and the bagging is removed according to the growth conditions. Using the bagging method to plant can promote the fruit tree to germinate, grow neatly, relieve the phenomenon of stiff seedlings, and it is particularly effective in jujube, persimmon and other late-fruiting fruit trees. (7) For the germinating but still not germinating saplings, one can carefully observe that if the seedlings are full on the buds, they can still survive and need to be properly watered and covered with soil. If it is found that seedlings appear to be dry from top to bottom, the dry part should be cut off, and the cut-off should be applied with a disinfectant to allow it to germinate. If all the grafted parts are dead and the rootstock is still alive, it should be cut off from the grafted part to allow the new rootstocks to sprout, so that the summer and fall seasons can be patched in time. If the whole plant dies, the plants should be unplugged and replanted during the rainy season.
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